Nirvana
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Arthur Veríssimo goes deep into India, right into the marrow of the globe's major religious crowd, meeting 800 thousand 800 mil Saddhus, being who renounce sex, do not speak, and stand in the scalding Sun with a pot full of embers on their heads.

By Arthur Veríssimo
Photography Bob Toledo and Arthur Veríssimo

Perplexed at the number of peoples before my fives senses, I dragged myself like a serpent on the banks of the sacred Ganges, alongside the city of Hardwar, Northwestern India. At each step or glance a multitude of situations and experiences exploded all around. This is the time and place of the most important Hindu faith festival , called Khumb Mela, with over 14 million Indians crowding the river for a sacred bath and to cleanse and purify their souls. I witnessed a multitude of pilgrims from all around India, with the broadest array of turbans, colors and fabrics I ever saw. The merciless Sun was about to melt my skull.

Thousands of individuals drank, shat and cooked all around. To finish up, I decided to take a swim among the crowds. The plunge went down in my personal history for two reasons:
First the havoc wreaked by the river's holy, but infected, water. The following night, my stomach and my bowels acted like independent units. They were totally disconnected from one another. With a swollen belly I ran towards a pot. No sign of defecation. Trembling from the effort, I tried mentalization and meditation and, as if by miracle, a divine power discharged the gas from my organism.


Reporter Arthur Veríssimo (seen here with Saddhu Baba Ram Nila, who he became friends with) spent 10 days eating, breathing and sleeping among Saddhus to, later, vanish into the Himalayas and reflect for 30 days.

Second, and more important, because of the friendship made with Narayana Giri. I met him among the Ganges crowds and it was through him that I came to know about the Saddhus. My friend carried me into contact and conviviality with tens of Saddhu camps. I had free access everywhere. I followed thousands of Saddhus into their morning bath. They would dive thrice and recite their secret mantras, cleansing body and soul and preparing for the subsequent rituals. Most, after bathing, would cover themselves with fresh ashes and exercise, a mix between vigorous yoga and intense stretching.

How to become a Saddhu

To become a holy man is one of the ways to transcend the social pressures of our times. For the Saddhus, this implies reprogramming body and mind through several methods: no sex, religious discipline, meditation, austerity. Without a doubt, what motivates ordinary citizens to become part of the "Saddhu Brotherhood" is the desire of spiritual illumination along with renouncement of the world of appearances and mundane pleasures. All this must be cast aside by holy men.

For the Saddhu, the security and comfort of a home are entirely discarded. Vows of poverty are of essence. Saddhus own only the minimum necessities and live on donations of the devout. Their lifestyle is archaic, making them appear like creatures out of the Bronze Age and the time of caves. Saddhus abandon their homes and renounces all social obligations.

Who are they:
Hindu holy men who abdicate from the pleasures and vanity of society
Population: 4 to 5 million Saddhus are estimated to exist all over the world
Address: deserts, forests, holy cities in India and particularly Himalayan caves
Creed: followers of the gods Shiva (destruction) and Vishnu (preservation of life)
Popular status: feared and respected throughout India for their powers

The globe's greatest crowd

Khumb Mela made the Guinness Book of Records: it is the greatest religious meeting in History.

Khumb Mela is the chief Hindu religious festival. It takes place every twelve years, alternating among the Indian cities of Allahabad, Ujain, Hardwar and Nasik. This twelve-year cycle is closely connected to the movement of Jupiter across the Zodiac. Choice the four sites is based on the belief that, every twelve years, the great battle between Deities and Demons for the holy pot that contained the nectar of immortality (Khumb)must be celebrated. During the battle, Jupiter entered into Aquarius and the Sun into Aries - a position that repeats itself every twelve years - purifying the Ganges and thereby favoring purification and meditation. Four droplets of the nectar would have hit the Earth at the cities above .

KM draws millions of pilgrims. The latest, held in April '98, led more than 15 million people to the city of Hardwar (the Guinness record as regards religious agglomerations). The event also became a major Saddhu convention, where they reunite, celebrate and exchange blessings. There, thousands of Saddhus get promoted and novice are initiated. The first record of the festival was made by Chinese traveler Hiuen Tsiang in the 7th Century. The second known record dates from 1822 and reports very few pilgrims, as the British already ruled the Indian subcontinent and, in the venality typical of settlers, they established a pilgrimage tax.

Faces

To show the lengths to which holy men will go to attain spiritual illumination, we publish a listing of the strangest men of the modern civilization

Saddhu Stork
6 years standing on one leg
Saddhu Dagger
Stuck a knife through his forearm and never took it out
Saddhu Antiperspirante
Lifted his right arm 12 years ago and never put it down again
Saddhu Hairpiece
Never cuts his hair